The person charging this material is re- sponsible for its return on or before the Latest Date stamped below. Theft, mutilation, and underlining of books are reasons for disciplinary action and may result in dismissal from the University. University of Illinois Library MAR 2 0 Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2017 with funding from University of Illinois Urbana-Champaign Alternates https://archive.org/details/banksofwyepoeminOObloo \ FPOJSTTIS PIE C E page $3. ■VTETW" of tiie 17 SX through a GAT I ondcmSublishal by £ &£- G-osby & OSH - -> ^ & THE AUTHOR. In the summer of 1807, a party of my good friends in Gloucestershire, proposed to themselves a short excursion down the Wye, and through part of South Wales. While this plan was in agitation, the lines which I had composed on “ Shooter’s Hill," during ill health, and inserted in my last volume, obtained their particular attention. A spirit of prediction, as well as sorrow, is there indulged; and it was now in the power of this happy party to falsify such predictions, and to render a pleasure to the writer of no common kind. An invitation to accompany PREFACE. vi them was the consequence; and the following Jour- nal is the result of that invitation. Should the reader, from being a resident, or fre- quent visitor, be well acquainted with the route, and able to discover inaccuracies in distances, suc- cession of objects, or local particulars, he is re- quested to recollect, that the party was out but ten days; a period much too short for correct a id la- borious description, but quite sufficient for all the powers of poetry which I feel capable of exerting. The whole exhibits the language and feelings of a man who had never before seen a mountainous country ; and of this it is highly necessary that the reader should be apprized. A Swiss, or perhaps a Scottish Highlander, may smile at supposed or real exaggerations ; but they will be excellent critics, when they call to mind PREFACE. that they themselves judge, in these cases, as I do, by comparison. Perhaps it may be said, that because much of public approbation has fallen to my lot, it was un- wise to venture again. I confess that the journey left such powerful, such unconquerable impres- sions on my mind, that embodying my thoughts in rhyme became a matter almost of necessity. To the parties concerned I know it will be an accept- able little volume: to whom, and to the public, it is submitted with due respect. ROBERT BLOOMFIELD, City Roady London y June 30, 1811 ADVERTISEMENT TO THE SECOND EDITION. When this Poem , or Journal , was submitted to the Public, I endeavoured to meet that confined and temporary approbation, which its locality in- duced me to expect. It is, therefore, with no small pleasure that I have, thus, in a Second Edi- tion, the power of correcting, and I hope amend- ing, this favourite of my fancy, this gem of my memory, which flashes upon me still like the sun- shine of Spring . 1 have seen no regular critique on the piece, strange as it may appear, (for l have left Lon- don,) and consequently , in the present instance, have not the advantage of public criticism. The Lady whose name appears in the Dedi- cation is no more; she was a wife and a mother, in their truest sense. And, it is sufficient for me to say, that she possessed the character which distinguishes her uncle, the venerable Granville Sharp. In my own family, I have sustained the loss of my second daughter, in her twentieth year; yet, while Providence grants me peace of mind . I enjoy repose, and am, the Reader’s Obedient, R. R. Shefford , Beds , April 7,1813. THE BANKS OF WYE BOOK I. CONTENTS OF BOOK I. The Vale of Uley. — Forest of Dean.— Ross.— Wilton Castle — Goodrich Castle. — Courtfield, Welch Bick- nor, Coldwell. — Gleaner’s Song. — Cold well Rocks. — Symmon’s Yat. —Great Doward.— New Wier. — Mar- tin’s Well.— The Coracle — Arrival at Monmouth. THE BANKS OF WYE. BOOK I. “ Rouse from thy slumber. Pleasure calls, arise. Quit thy half-rural bower, a while despise The thraldom that consumes thee. We who dwell Far from thy land of smoke, advise thee well. Here Nature's bounteous hand around shall fling. Scenes that thy Muse hath never dar'd to sing. When sickness weigh’d thee down,and strengt h declin’d ; W hen dread eternity absorb'd thy mind. Flow'd the predicting verse, by gloom o'erspread. That 'Cambrian mountains’ thousliouldst never treads That ' time-worn cliff*, and classic stream to see/ Was wealth's prerogative, despair for thee. 4 THE BANKS OF WYE. Come to the proof; with us the breeze inhale, 13 Renounce despair, and come to Severn’s vale ; And where the Cots wold Hills are stretch’d along. Seek our green dell, as yet unknown to song : Start hence with us, and trace, with raptur’d eye, The wild meander ings of the beauteous Wye; Thy ten days leisure ten days joy shall prove. And rock and stream breathe amity and love.” Such was the call ; with instant ardour hail’d. The syren Pleasure enroll’d and prevail’d; Soon the deep dell appear’d, and the clear brow Of Uley Bury* smiled o’er ali below. O’er mansion, flock, and circling woods that hung Round the sweet pastures where the sky-lark sung. * Bury> or Burg, tlie Saxon name for a hill, particularly for one wholly or partially formed by art. Uley Bury, from THE BANKS OF WYE 5 O for the fancy, vigorous and sublime, 27 Chaste as the theme, to triumph over time l Bright as the rising day, and firm as truth. To speak new transports to the lowland youth. That bosoms still might throb, and still adore. When his who strives to charm them beats no more ! One August morn,: with spirits high, Sound health, bright hopes, and cloudless sky, A cheerful group their farewell bade To Dursley tower, to Uley’s shade; tlie singular valley below, embosoming Uley'and Oulpen> is an eminence of singular beauty, crowned by intrench- mciits; though in itself but a kind of termination of the Cotswold Hills, in which character Slinchcombe takes the leadj and both command a vast prospect over the Se* vern and the mountains of South Wales. THE BANKS OF WYE. 4 And where bold Stinchcombe’s greenwood side Heaves in the van of highland pride, 38 Scour’d the broad vale of Severn; where The foes of verse shall never dare Genius to scorn, or bound its power. There bloodstain’d Berkeley’s turrets low’r* A name that cannot pass away. Till time forgets “the Bard” of Gray. Quitting fair Glo’ster’s northern road, To gain the pass of Framilode, Before us Dean’s black forest spread. And May Hill, with his tufted head,, Beyond the ebbing tide appear’d; And Cambria’s distant mountains rear’d Their dark blue summits far away; And Severn, ’midst the burning day. THE BANKS OF WYE. « Curv’d his bright line, and bore along The mingled Avon, pride of song. The trembling steeds soon ferry’d o’er. Neigh’d loud upon the forest shore; Domains that once, at early morn. Rang to the hunter’s bugle horn. When barons proud would bound away; And even kings would hail the day. When crested chiefs their bright-arm’d train Of javelin’d horsemen rous’d amain. And chasing wide the wolf or boar. Bade the deep woodland valleys roar. But we no dang’rous chace pursu’d; Sound wheels and hoofs their tasks renew’d; Behind roll’d Severn, gleaming far. Around us roar’d no Sylvan war. 53 8 THE BANKS OF WYE. ’Mid depths of shade, gay sunbeams broke Through noble Flaxley’s bow’rs of oak; And many a cottage, trim and gay. Whisper’d delight through all the way; On hills expos’d, in dells unseen. To patriarchal Mitchel Deai*. Rose-cheek’d Pomona here was queen. Though Ceres edg’d her fields between. And on each hill-top, mounted high. Her sickle wav’d in extasy; Till Ross, thy charms all hearts confess’d. Thy peaceful walks, thy hours of rest And contemplation. Here the mind* (Its usual luggage left behind,) Feels all its dormant fires revive. And sees “the Man of Ross'3 alive; 69 THE BANKS OF WYE. & And hears the Twickenham Bard again, 85 To Kyrle’s high virtues lift his strain $ Whose own hand cloth’d this far-fanYd hill With reverend elms, that shade us still; Whose memory shall survive the day. When elms and empires feel decay. Kyrle die, by Bard ennobled? Never, The Man of Ross , shall live for ever; And long that spire shall time defy. To grace the flowh-y -margin’d Wye, Scene of the morrow’s joy, that prest Its unseen beauties on our rest* In dreams ; but who of dreams would tell. Where truth sustains the song so well*? * The carriages were sent forward to meet the party at Chepstow. 10 THE BANKS OF WYE. The morrow came, and Beauty's eye Ne’er beam’d upon a lovelier sky; Imagination instant brought. And dash’d, amidst the train of thought. Tints of the how. The boatman stript; Glee at the helm exulting tript. And wav’d her flower-encircled wand, “ Away, away, to Fairy Land.” Light dipt the oars ; but who can name The various objects dear to fame. That changing, doubling, wild, and strong. Demand the noblest powers of songp Then, O forgive the vagrant Muse, Ye who the sweets of Nature chuse; And thou, whom destiny hath tied To this romantic river’s side, , 99 THE BANKS OF WYE. 11 Down gazing from each close retreat, 115^ On boats that glide beneath thy feet. Forgive the stranger’s meagre line. That seems to slight that spot of thine; For he, alas ! coaid only glean The changeful outlines of the scene; A momentary bliss ; and here Links memory’s power with rapture’s tear. Who curb’d the barons’ kingly power*? Let hist’ry tell that fateful hour * Henry the Seventh gave an irrevocable blow to the dangerous privileges assumed by the barons, in abolish- ing liveries and retainers, by which every malefactor could shelter himself from the law, on assuming a no- bleman’s livery, and attending his person. And as a finishing stroke to the feudal tenures, an act was passed, by which the barons and gentlemen of landed interest 13 THE BANKS OF WYE. At home, when surly winds shall roar, 125 And prudence shut the study door. De Wilton’s here of mighty name. The whelming flood, the summer stream. Mark’d from their towers. — The fabric fails. The rubbish of their splendid halls. Time in his march hath scatter’d wide. And blank oblivion strives to hide* *. A while the grazing herd was seen. And trembling willow’s silver green, Till the fantastic current stood. In line direct for Pencraig Wood; were at liberty to sell and mortgage their lands, without fines or licences for the alienation. * The ruins of Wilton Castle stand on the opposite side of the river, nearly fronting the town of Ross. THE BANKS OF WYE. 13 Whose bold green summit welcome bade, 137 Then rear’d behind his nodding shade. Here, as the light boat skimm’d along. The clarionet, and chosen song, (That mellow, wild, Eolian lay, “ Sweet in the Woodlands,”) roll’d away Their echoes down the stream, that bore Each dying close to every shore. And forward Cape, and woody range. That form the never-ceasing change. To him who floating, void of care. Twirls with the stream, he knows not where. Till bold, impressive, and sublime. Gleam’d all that’s left by storms and time Of Goodrich Towers. The mould’ring pile Tells noble truths, — but dies the while. THE BANKS OF WYE. 14 O'er the steep path, through brake and brier, 153 His batter’d turrets still aspire. In rude magnificence. ’Twas here Lancastrian Henry spread his cheer. When came the news that Hal was born. And Monmouth hail’d th’ auspicious mom 3 A boy in sports, a prince in war. Wisdom and valour crown’d his car; Of France the terror, England’s glory. As Stratford’s bard has told the story. No butler’s proxies snore supine. Where the old monarch kept his wine; No Welch ox roasting, horns and all. Adorns his throng’d and laughing hall; But where he pray’d, and told his beads, A thriving ash luxuriant spreads. THE BANKS OF WYE. 1ft No wheels by piecemeal brought the pile; 169 No barks embowePd Portland Isle; Dig, cried experience, dig away. Bring the firm quarry into day. The excavation still shall save Those ramparts which its entrails gave. “ Here Kings shall dwell,” the builders cry’d, “ Here England's foes shall low’r their pride; ee Hither shall suppliant nobles come, “ And this be England’s Royal home." Vain hope! for on the Gwentian shore. The regal banner streams no more ! Nettles, and vilest weeds that grow. To mock poor grandeur’s head laid low. Creep round the turrets valour rais’d. And flaunt where youth and beauty gaz’d. 16 THE BANKS OF WYE. Here fain would strangers loiter long, 1S£ And muse as Fancy’s woof grows strong; Yet cold the heart that could complain, Where Pollett* struck his oars again; For lovely as the sleeping child. The stream glides on sublimely wild, In perfect beauty, perfect ease. — The awning trembled in the breeze. And scarcely trembled, as we stood For Ruerdean Spire and Bishop’s Wood. The fair domains of CouRTFiELDf made A paradise of mingled shade * The boatman. f A seat belonging to the family of Vaughan, which is not unnoticed in the pages of history. According to tradi- tion, it is the place where Henry the Fifth was nursed, THE BANKS OF WYE. 1? Round Bicknoii’s tiny church, that cowers 19/ Beneath his host of woodland bowers. But who the charm of words shall ding'. O’er Raven Cliff, and Coldwell Spring, To brighten the unconscious eye. And wake the soul to extasy ? Noon scorch’d the fields; the boat lay to; The dripping oars had nought to do. Where round us rose a scene that might Enchant an idiot — glorious sight! under the care of the Countess of Salisbury, from which circumstance the original name of Grayfield is said to have been changed to Courtfield* *. * This is probably an erroneous tradition; for Court was a com- mon uame for a manor-house, where the lord of the manor held hi* court. — Coxe's Monmouth. 18 THE BANKS OF WYE. Here, in one gay aceord’ng mind. Upon the sparkling stream we din’d; As shepherds free on mountain heath. Free as the fish that watch’d beneath For falling crumbs, where cooling lay The wine that cheer’d us on our way. Th’ unruffled bosom of the stream Gave every tint and every gleam ; Gave shadowy rocks, and clear blue sky. And double clouds of various dye ; Gave dark green woods, or russet brown. And pendant corn-fields, upside down. A troop of gleaners -chang’d their shade, And ’twas a change by music made; For slowly to the brink they drew. To mark our joy, and share it too. 207 the banks of wye. ?§ How oft, ill childhood’s flow’ry days, 22$ l ve heard the wild impassion’d lays Of such a group, lays strange and new. And thought, was ever song so true ? When from the hazel’s cool retreat. They watch’d the summer’s trembling heat; And through the boughs rude urchins play’d. Where matrons, round the laughing maid, Prest the long grass beneath! And here Perhaps they shar’d an equal cheer; Enjoy’d the feast with equal glee. And rais’d the song of revelry : Yet half abash’d, reserv’d, and shy . Watch’d till the strangers glided by. 20 THE BANKS OF WYE. GLEANER'S SONG Dear Ellen, your tales are all plenteously stor’d. With the joys of some bride, and the wealth of her lord: Of her chariots and dresses, 239 And worldly caresses. And servants that fiy when she’s waited upon : But what can she boast if she weds unbelov’d? Can she e’er feel the joy that one morning I prov’d. When I put on my new-gown and waited for John? These fields, my dear Ellen, I knew them of yore, Yet to me they ne’er look’d so enchanting before.; The distant bells ringing, THE BANKS OF WYE. 21 For pleasure is pure when affection is won; 249 They told me the troubles and cares of a wife ; But I lovM him ; and that was the pride of my life. When I put on my new-gown and waited for John. He shouted and ran, as he leapt from the stile; And what in my bosom was passing the while ? For love knows the blessing Of ardent caressing. When virtue inspires us, and doubts are all gone. The sunshine of Fortune you say is divine; True love and the sunshine of Nature were mine. When I put on my new-gown and waited for John* Never could spot be suited less To bear memorials of distress ^ THE BANKS OF WYE. None, cries the sage, more fit is found, 263 They strike at once a double wound; Humiliation bids you sigh. And think of poor mortality. Close on the bank, and half overgrown. Beneath a dark wood’s sombrous frown,, A monumental stone appears. Of one who in his blooming years. While bathing spurn’d the grassy shore. And sunk, midst friends, to rise no more; By parents witness’d. — Hark! their shrieks E The dreadful language horror speaks! But why in verse attempt to tell That tale the stone records so well*? * Inscription on the side towards the water. u Sacred to the memory of John Whitehead Waiire, THE BANKS OF WYE. £3 Nothing could damp th’ awaken’d joy, 277 Not e’en thy fate, ingenuous boy; The great, the grand of Nature strove. To lift our hearts to life and love. M ho perished near this spot, whilst bathing in the river Wye, iu sight of his afflicted parents, brother, and sisters, on the J4th of September, Is04? in- the sixteenth year of his age. god’s WILL EE DO \ E, u Who, in his mercy, hath granted consolation to the pa- rents of the dear departed, in the reflection, that he pos- sessed truth, innocence, filial piety, and fraternal affec- tion, in the highest degree. That, but a few moments before he was called to a better life, he had (with a never to be forgotten piety) joined his family in joyful thanks to his Maker, for the restoration of his mother’s health, llis parents, in justice to his amiable virtue and excellent disposition, declare, that he was void of offence towards them. With humbled hearts they bow to the Almighty’s dispensation \ trusting, through the mediation of liis £4 THE BANKS OF WYE. Hail! Coldwell rocks; frowu,. frown away ^ Thrust from your woods your shafts of grey : 282 Full not, to crush our mortal pride. Or stop the stream on which we glide. blessed Son, he will mercifully receive their child he so suddenly took to himself. “ This monument is here erected to warn parents and others how they trust the deceitful stream ; and part ic u' larly to exhort them to learn and observe the directions of the Humane Society, for the recovery of persons appa- rently drowned. Ahis! it is with the extremest sorrow here commemorated, what anguish is felt from a want of this knowledge. The lamented youth swam very well ; was endowed with great bodily strength and activity; and possibly, had proper application been used, might have been saved from bis untimely fate. He was born at Oporto, in the kingdom of Portugal, on the 14th of Fe- bruary, 1789; third son of James Warre, of London, and of the county of Somerset, merchant, and Elinor, daugh> ter of Thomas Gregg, of Belfast, Esq. THE BANKS OF WYE. 25 Our lives are short, our joys are few : 285 But, giants, what is time to you P Ye who erect, in many a mass. Rise from the scarcely dimpled glass. u Passenger, whoever thou art, spare this tomb! It is erected for the benefit of the surviving, being but a poor record of the grief of those who witnessed the sad occasion of it* God preserve you and yours from such calamity ! May you not require their assistance 5 but if you should, the apparatus, with directions for the application by the Humane Society, for the saving of persons apparently drowned, are lodged at the church of Caldwell.” On the opposite side is inscribed , “ It is with gratitude acknowledged by the parents of the deceased, that permission w as gratuitously, and most obligingly, granted for the erection of this monument, by William Vaughan, Esq. of Courtfield.” THE B VNKS OF WYE. 26 That with distinct, and mellow glow. Reflects your monstrous forms below; Or in clear shoals, in breeze or sun. Shakes all your shadows into one; Boast ye o’er man in proud disdain, A silent, everlasting reign P Bear ye your heads so high in scorn Of names that puny man hath borne? Proud rocks ! had Cambria’s bards but here Their names engraven , deep and clear. That such as gaily wind along. Might greet with shouts those sires of song. And trace the fame that mortals crave. To LIGHT and LIFE beyond the grave! Then might ye boast your wreaths entwin’d. With trophies of the deathless MIND,. 289 THE BANKS OF WYE. 27 Then would your fronts record on high, SOS “ We perish! — Man can never die! Not nameless quite ye lift your brows* For each the navigator knows; Not by King Arthur, or his knights, Bard fam’d in lays, or chief in fights; But former tourists, just as free, (Though surely not so blest as we,) A group of wranglers from the bar. Suspending here , their mimic war. Mark’d towering Bearcropt’s ivy crown. And grey Yansittart’s waving gown; And who’s that giant by his side? “ Sergeant Ai>air,” the boatman cried. Yet strange it seems, however true. That here, where law has nought to do. 28 THE BANKS OF WYE. Where rules and bonds are set aside. By wood, by rock, by stream defy’d ; That here, where nature seems at strife With all that tells of bus)^ life, Man should by names be carried still, To Babylon against his will. But how shall memory rehearse. Or dictate the untoward verse That truth demands? Could he refuse Thy unsought honours, darling Muse, Who thus, in idle, happy trim Rode just where friends would carry him. And thus hath since his cares beguil’d By rhymes as joyous, and as wild? Truth he obeys. The generous band. That spread his board and grasp’d his hand* 321 THE BANKS OF WYE. 29 In native mirth, as here they came. Gave a bluff rock his humble name: A yew-tree clasps its rugged base ; The boatman knows its reverend face ; With Pollett’s memory and Lis fee , Rests the result that time shall see. Yet, whether time shall sweep away The fragile whimsies of a day ; Or future travellers rest the oar. To hear the mingled echoes roar A stranger’s triumph! He will feel A joy that death alone can steal. And should he cold indifference feign. And treat such honours with disdain. Pretending pride shall not deceive him. Good people all, pray don’t believe him; 337 THE BANKS OF WYE. 30 In such a spot to leave a name, 353 At least is no opprobrious fame; This reck perhaps nprear’d his brow. Ere human blood began to flow. Nor let ti e wandering stranger fear That Wye here ends her wild career ; Though closing boughs, — though hills may seem To bar all egress to the stream. Some airy height he climbs amain. And finds the silver eel again. No fears we form’d, no labours counted, Yet Symmon’s Yat must be surmounted; A tower of rock that seems to cry, 4 Go round about me, neighbour Wye*/ * This rocky isthmus, perforated at the base, would measure not more than six hundred yards, and its highest THE BANKS OF WYE. M On went the boat, and up the steep 367 Her straggling* crew began to creep* To gain the ridge, enjoy the view. Where the fresh gales of summer blew. The gleaming Wye, that circles round. Her four-mile course, again is found; And crouching to the conqueror’s pride. Bathes his huge cliffs on either side; Seen at one glance, when from his brow. The eye surveys twin gulphs below. point is two thousand feet above the water. If this state- ment, taken from Coxe's History of Monmouthshire, and an Excursion down the Wye, by C. Heath, of Monmouth, is correct, its elevation is greater than that of the “ Pen y Vale,” or u Sugar-Loaf Mountain,” near Abergavenny. Yet it has less the appearance of a mountain, than the river has that of an excavation. It is probable that some error has crept into the publications above named. THE BANKS OF WYE. 32 Whence comes thy name? What Symon he. Who gain’d a monument in thee ? 3 78 Perhaps a wild-wood hunter, — bom Peril, and toil, and death to scorn. Or w arrior, with his powerful lance, Who scal’d the cliff to mark th’ advance Of rival arms, — Or humble swrain Who sought for pasture here in vain; Or venerable bard, who strove To tune his harp to themes of love ; Or with a poet’s ardent dame. Sung to the winds his country’s fame? Westward Great Do ward, stretching wide. Upheaves his iron-bow el’d side; And by his everlasting mound. Prescribes th’ imprison’d river’s bound. 'zVzfivd - — THE BANKS OF WYE. S3 And strikes the eye with mountain force : S9S But stranger mark thy rugged course From crag to crag, unwilling, slow. To New Wier forge, that smokes below. Here rush’d the keel like lightning by : The helmsman watch’d with anxious eye ; And oars alternate touch’d the brim. To keep the flying boat in trim. Forward quick changing, changing still. Again rose cliff, and wood, and hill. Where mingling foliage seem’d to strive. With dark-brown saplings, flay’d alive*. * The custom is here alluded to, of stripping the bark from oaks while growing, which gives ao almost unde* scribable, thongh not the most agreeable, effect to tht landscape* u THE BANKS OF WYE. Down to the gulph beneath; where eft The toiling wood-boy dragg’d aloft His stubborn faggot from the brim, And gaz'd, and tugg’d with sturdy limb; And where the mind repose would seek, A barren, storm-defying peak. The Little Doward lifted high His rocky crown of royalty. Hush ! not a whisper ! Oars be still ! Comes that soft sound from yonder hill ? Or is the sound so faint, though near It scarcely strikes the listening ear? E’en so; for down the green bank, fell. An ice-cold stream from Martin’s Well, Bright as young beauty’s azure eye, And pure as infant chastity, 405 THE BANKS OF WYE. 35 Each limpid draught, suffus’d with dew, 421 The dipping glass’s crystal hue ; And as it trembling reach’d the lip, Delight sprung up at ev’ry sip. Pure, temperate joys, and calm, were these; We tost upon no Indian seas ; No savage Chiefs, with tawny crew. Came jabbering in the bark canoe Our strength to dare, our course to turn; Yet boats a South Sea chief would burn*. * In Caesar’s Commentaries, mention is made of boats of this description, formed of a raw hide, (from whence, per- haps, their name Coracle,) which were in use among the natives. How little they dreamed of the vastness of mo- dern perfection* and of the naval conflicts of latter days ! 3G THE BANKS OF WYE. Sculk’d in the alder shade. Each bore. Devoid of keel, or sail, or oar. An upright fisherman, with eye. Of Bramin-like solemnity ; Who scanned the surface either way. And cleaved it like a fly at play; And crossways bore a balanc’d pole. To drive the salmon from his hole; Then heedful leapt, without parade. On shore, as luck or fancy bade; And o’er his back, in gallant trim. Swung the light shell that carried him; Then down again his burden threw. And launch’d his whirling bowl anew ; Displaying, in his bow’ry station. The infancy of navigation. 431 THE BANKS OF WYE. 37 Soon round us spread the hills and dales. Where Geoffrey spun his magic tales. And call’d them history. The land Whence Arthur sprung, and all his band Of gallant knights. Sire of romance, Who led the fancy’s mazy dance. Thy tales shall please, thy name still be. When Time forgets my verse and me. Low sunk the sun, his ev’ning beam Scarce reach’d us on the tranquil stream; Shut from the world, and all its din. Nature’s own bonds had clos’d us in; Wood, and deep dell, and rock, and ridge. From smiling Ross to Monmouth Bridge; From morn, till twilight stole away, A long, unclouded, glorious day. 477 END OF THE FIRST BOOK* THE BANKS OF WYE. BOOK II. CONTENTS OF BOOK II. Henry the Fifth. — Morning on the Water. — Landoga. — Ballad, “The Maid of Landoga”— Tintern Abbey. — Wind-Cliff. — Arrival at Chepstow. — Persfield. — Ballad, w Morris of Persfield.” — View from Wind- Cliff. — Chep- *tow Castle by Moonlight. THE BANKS OE WYE. BOOK IT. Harry of Monmouth, o'er thy page. Great chieftain of a daring age. The stripling soldier burns to see The spot of thy nativity; His ardent fancy can restore Thy castle's turrets, (now no more;) See the tall plumes of victory wave. And call old valour from the grave; Twang the strong bow, and point the lance. That pierc’d the shatter’d hosts of France, 42 THE BANKS OF WYE. When Nations, in the days of yore. Shook at the rampant lion’s roar. Ten hours were all we could command ^ The Boat was moor’d upon the strand. The midnight current, by her side. Was stealing down to meet the tide; The wakeful steersman ready lay. To rouse us at the break of day ; It came — how soon ! and what a sky. To cheer the bounding traveller’s eye! To make him spurn his couch of rest. To shout upon the river’s breast. Watching by turns the rosy hue Of early cloud, or sparkling dew. These living joys the verse shall tell, Harry, and Monmouth, fare-ye-welh 11 THE BANKS OF WYE. 46 On upland farm; and airy heigh t. Swept by the breeze, and cloth’d in light. The reapers, early from their beds. Perhaps were singing o’er our heads. For, stranger, deem not that the eye Could hence survey the eastern sky; Or mark the streak’d horizon’s bound. Where first the rosy sun wheels round; Deep in the gulph beneath were we. Whence climb’d blue mists o’er rock and tree; A mingling, undulating crowd. That form’d the dense or fleecy cloud; Slow from the darken’d stream upborne. They caught the quick’ning gales of morn; There bade their parent Wye good day. And ting’d with purple, sail’d away. 27 44 THE BANKS OF WYE. The Munno* join’d us all unseen. 43 Troy House, and Beaufort’s bowers of green. And nameless prospects, half defin’d. Involv’d in mist, were left behind. Yet as the boat still onward bore. The ramparts of the eastern shore Cower’d the high crest to many a sweep. And bade us o’er each minor steep Mark the bold Kymin’s sunny brow. That, gleaming o’er our fogs below. Lifted amain with giant power. E’en to the clouds his Naval Tower f; * The river Munno, or Mynnow, falls into the Wye, near Monmouth. f The Kymin Pavilion, erected in honour of the Bri- tish Admirals, and their unparalleled victories. THE BANKS OF WYE. 45 Proclaiming to the morning sky. Valour, and fame, and victory. The air resign’d its hazy blue. Just as Landoga came in view; Delightful village! one by one. Thy climbing dwellings caught the sun. So bright the scene, the air so clear. Young Love and Joy seem’d station’d here; And each with floating banners cried, “ Stop friends, you’ll meet the rushing tide.” Rude fragments, torn, disjointed, wild. High on the Glo’ster shore are pil’d; No mould’ring fane, the boast of years. Unstain’d by time, the wreck appears : With pouring wrath, and hideous swell, Down foaming from a woodland dell. 55 46 THE BANKS OF WYE. A Summer flood’s resistless pow’r, Rais’d the grim ruin in an hour ! When that o’erwhelming tempest spread Its terrors round the guilty head. When earth-bound rocks themselves gave way, When crash’d the prostrate timbers lay, O, it had been a noble sight. Crouching beyond the torrent’s might. To mark th’ uprooted victims bow. The grinding masses dash below. And hear the long deep peal the while Burst over Tjntern’s roofless pile! Then, as the sun regain’d his power. When the last breeze from hawthorn bower Or Druid oak, had shook away The rain-drops ’midst the gleaming day, 71 THE BANKS OF WYE. 47 Perhaps the sigh of hope return’d And love in some chaste bosom burn’d. And softly trill’d the stream along, Some rustic maiden’s village song. THE MAID OF LANDOGA. Return, my Llewellyn, the glory That heroes may gain o’er the sea. Though nations may feel Their invincible steel, M. By falsehood is tarnish’d in story; Why tarry, Llewellyn, from me P Thy sails, on the fathomless ocean, Are swell’d by the boisterous gale; How rests thy tir’d head On the rude rocking bed P 87 48 THE BANKS OF WYE. While here not a leaf is in motion. And melody reigns in the dale. The mountains of Monmouth invite thee; The Wye, O how beautiful here ! This woodbine, thine own. Hath the cottage overgrown, O what foreign shore can delight thee. And where is the current so clear ? Can lands, where false pleasure assails thee. And beauty invites thee to roam; Can the deep orange grove Charm with shadows of love? Thy love at Landoga bewails thee; Remember her truth and thy home. 10! THE BANKS OF WYE. 49 Adieu, Landoga, scene most dear. Farewell we bade to Ethel’s Wier; Bound many a point then bore away. Till morn was chang’d to beauteous day : And forward on the lowland shore. Silent majestic ruins, wore The stamp of holiness; this strand The steersman hail’d, and touch’d the land. Sudden the change; at once to tread The grass-grown mansions of the dead ! Awful to feeling, where, immense. Rose ruin’d, gray magnificence ; The fair- wrought shaft all ivy-bound. The tow’ring arch with foliage crown’d, 105 50 THE BANKS OF WYE. That trembles on its brow sublime> 119 Triumphant o’er the spoils of time. Here, grasping all the eye beheld. Thought into mingling anguish s well’d. And check’d the wild excursive wing. O’er dust or bones of priest or king: Or rais’d some blood-stain’d* warrior’s ghost To shout before his banner’d host. But all was still. — The checquer’d floor Shall echo to the step no more; Nor airy roof the strain prolong. Of vesper chant or choral song. * There is shewn here a mutilated figure, which they call (he famous Earl Strongbow; but it appears from Coxe that he was buried at Gloucester. THE BANKS OF WYE- SI Tintern, thy name shall hence sustain A thousand raptures in my brain ; Joys, full of soul, all strength, all eye. That cannot fade, that cannot die. No loitering here, lone walks to steal* Ours was the early hunter’s meal; For time and tide, stern couple, ran Their endless race, and laugh’d at man; Deaf, had we shouted, “ turn about,” Or, “ wait a while, till we come out;’* To humour them we check’d our pride* And ten cheer’d hearts stow’d side by side. Push’d from the shore with current strong, And “ Hey for Chepstow,” steer’d along* I SI UBmr — university m nmm THE BVNKS OF WYE. M Amidst the bright expanding day, 145 The solemn, deep, dark shadows lay Of that rich foliage, tow’ring o’er Where princely abbots dwelt of yore. The mind, with instantaneous glance. Beholds his barge of state advance. Borne proudly down the ebbing tide. She sweeps the waving boughs aside ; She winds with flowing pendants drest. And as the current turns south-west. She strikes her oars, where, full in view. Stupendous Wind-Cliff greets her crew. But, Fancy, let thy day-dreams cease. With fallen greatness be at peace; Enough; for Wind-Cliff still was found To hail us as we doubled round. THE BANKS OF WYE. 53 Bold in primeval strength he stood; 161 His rocky brow, all shagg’d with wood, O’er-Iook’d his base, where, doubling strong, The inward torrent pours along; Then ebbing turns, and turns again, (To meet the Severn and the Main,) Beneath the dark shade sweeping round. Of beetling Persfield’s fairy ground. By buttresses of rock upborne. The rude Apostles all unshorn*. Long be the slaughtering axe defy’d; Long may they bear their waving pride; Tree over tree, bower over bower. In uncurb’d nature’s wildest power; * Twelve projecting rocks so named, fringed with fo- liage nearly to the water’s edge. 54 THE BANKS OF WYE. Till Wye forgets to wind below, 175 And genial spring to bid them grow* And shall we e'er forget the day, When our last chorus died away ? When first we hail’d, then moor’d beside Rock-founded Chepstow’s mouldering pride? Where that strange bridge*, light, trembling, high. Strides like a spider o’er the Wye; * “On my arrival at Chepstow,” says Mr. Coxe, " I walked to the bridge; it was low water, and I looked down on the river ebbing between forty and fifty feet be- neath; six hours after, it rose near forty feet, almost reached the floor of the bridge, and flowed upward with great rapidity. The channel in this place being narrow in proportion to the Severn, and confined between per- pendicular cliffs, the great rise and fall of the river are peculiarly manifest.” THE BANKS OF WYE. &3 When, for the joys the morn had giv’n. Our thankful hearts were rais’d to heav’n P Never: — that moment shall be dear. While hills can charm, or sun-beams cheer, Pollett, farewell ! Thy dashing oar Shall lull us into peace no more; But where Kyrle trimm’d his infant green. Long mayst thou with thy bark be seen; And happy be the hearts that glide Through such a scene, with such a guide. The verse of gravel walks that tells, W7ith pebble-rocks and mole-hill swells. May strain description^ bursting cheeks. And far out-run the goal it seeks. Not so when ev’ning^s purpling hours Hied us away to Perseield's bowers: 183 THE BANKS OF WYE. My Here no such clanger waits the lay, 199 Sing on, and truth shall lead the way ; Here sight may range, and hearts may glow. Yet shrink from the abyss below; Here echoing precipices roar. As youthful ardour shouts before : Here a sweet paradise shall rise At once to greet poetic eyes. Then why does HE dispel, unkind. The sweet illusion from the mind, YON GIANT*, with the goggling eye, Who strides in mock sublimity? * An immense giant of stone, who, to say the best of him, occupies a place where such personages are least wanted, or wished. THE BANKS OF WYE. 57 Giants identified, may frown. Nature and taste would knock them down: Blocks that usurp some noble station. As if to curb imagination. Which, smiling at the chissel’s pow'r. Makes better monsters every hour. Beneath impenetrable green, Down 'midst the hazel stems was seen The turbid stream, with all that past ; The lime-white deck, the gliding mast; Or skiff with gazers darting by. Who rais'd their hands in extasy. Impending cliffs hung overhead; The rock-path sounded to the tread. Where twisted roots, in many a fold. Through moss, disputed room for hold. m 58 THE BANKS OF WYE. The stranger who thus steals one hour To trace thy walks from bower to bower, Thy noble cliffs, thy wild wood joys. Nature’s own work that never cloys. Who, while reflection bids him roam. Calls not this paradise his home , Can ne’er, with dull unconscious eye. Leave them behind without a sigh. Thy tale of truth then. Sorrow, tell, Of him who bade this home farewell; Morris of Persfield. — Hark, the strains* Hark ! ’tis some hoary bard complains ! The deeds, the worth, he knew so well, The force of nature bids him tell. 227 THE BANKS OF WYE. £9 MORRIS OF PERSFIELD. Who was lord of yon beautiful seat; Yon woods which are tow’ring so high? Who spread the rich board for the great. Yet listen’d to pity’s soft sigh? WTho gave with a spirit so free. And fed the distress’d at his door ? Our Morris of Persfield was he. Who dwelt in the hearts of the poor. But who e’en of wealth shall make sure. Since wealth to misfortune has bow’d ? Long cherish’d untainted and pure. The stream of his charity flow’d. 241 60 THE BANKS OF WYE. But all his resources gave way, O what could his feelings controulP What shall curb, in the prosperous day, Th? excess of a generous soul? He bade an adieu to the town, O, can I forget the sad day P When I saw the poor widows kneel down. To bless him, to weep, and to pray. Though sorrow was mark'd in his eye. This trial he manfully bore; Then pass’d o’er the bridge of the Wye, To return to his Persfield no more. ’Twas true that another might feel; That poverty still might be fed. 253 THE BANKS OF WYE. 61 Y~et long we rung out the dumb peal, 257 For to us noble Morris was dead. He had not lost sight of his home. Yon domain that so lovely appears. When he heard it, and sunk overcome ; He felt it-— and burst into tears. The lessons of prudence have charms. And slighted, may lead to distress; But the man whom benevolence warms. Is an angel who lives but to bless. If ever man merited fame. If ever man’s failings went free. Forgot at the sound of his name. Our Morris of Persfield was he*. * The author is equally indebted to Mr. Coxe’s Coun- 62 THE BANKS OF WYE. Cleft from the summit, who shall say 281 When Wind- Cliff’s other half gave way? Or when the sea- waves, roaring strong, First drove the rock-bound tide along? To studious leisure be resign’d. The task that leads the wilder ’d mind. From time’s first birth throughout the range Of Nature’s everlasting change. Soon from his all-commanding brow. Lay Persfield’s rocks and woods below* Back over Monmouth who could trace The Wye’s fantastic mountain race? Before us, sweeping far and wide. Lay out-stretch’d Severn’s ocean tide. ty History for this anecdote, as for the greater part of the notes subjoined throughout the Journal, THE BANKS OF WYE. m Through whose blue mists, ail upward blown, 295 Broke the faint lines of heights unknown ; And still, (though clouds would interpose,) The Cotswold promontories rose In dark succession: Stinciicombe’s brow. With Berkeley-Castle crouch’d below; And stranger spires on either hand. From Thornbury, on the Glo’ster strand. With black-brow’d woods, and yellow fields, (The boundless wealth that summer yields,) Detain’d the eye, that glanc’d again O’er Kingroad anchorage to the main. Or was the bounded view preferr’d. Far, far beneath, the spreading herd. Low’d, as the cow-boy stroll’d along. And cheerly sung his last new song. 64 THE BANKS OF WYE. But cow-boy, herd, and tide, and spire Sunk into gloom. — -The tinge of fire. As westward roll’d the setting day. Fled like a golden dream away. Then Chepstow’s rain’d fortress caught The mind’s collected store of thought, A dark; majestic, jealous frown Hung on his brow, and warn’d us down. *T was well; for he has much to boast. Much still that tells of glories lost. Though rolling years have form’d the sod. Where once the bright-helm’d warrior trod From tower to tower, and gaz’d around. While all beneath him slept profound. E’en on the walls where pac’d the brave. High o’er his crumbling turrets wave 31 1 page 64. THE BANKS OF WYE 65 The rampant seedlings.— Not a breath 327 Past through their leaves ; when, still as death, We stopp’d to watch the clouds — for night Grew splendid with increasing light. Till, as time loudly told the hour. Gleam’d the broad front of Marten's Tower*, * Henry Marten, whose signature appears upon the death-warrant of Charles the First, finished his days here in prison. Marten lived to the advanced age of seventy eight> and died by a stroke of apoplexy, which seized him while he was at dinner, in the twentieth year of his confinement. He was buried in the chancel of the parish church at Chepstow. Over his ashes was placed a stone with an inscription, which remained there until one of the succeeding vicars declaring his abhorrence that the monument of a rebel should stand so near the altar, re’ moved the stone into the body of the church ! F G6 THE BANKS OF WYE. Bright silver’d by the moon. — Then rose The wild notes sacred to repose; Then the lone owl awoke from rest. Stretch’d his keen talons, plum’d his crest. And, from his high embattl’d station. Hooted a trembling salutation. Rocks caught the “ halloo” from his tongue. And Persfield back the echoes flung Triumphant o’er th’ illustrious dead. Their history lost, their glories fled. 833 END OF THE SECOND BOOK. THE BANKS OF WYE BOOK III. CONTENTS OF BOOK III. Departure for Ragland.— Ragland Castle, — Abergavenny. —Expedition up the u Pen-y-Vale,” or Sugar-Loaf Hill — Invocation to the Spirit of Burns. — View from the Mountain. — Castle of Abergavenny. — Departure for Brecon.— Pembrokes of Crickhowel. — Tre-Tower Castle.— Jane Edwards. THE BANKS OF WYE. book nr. P eace to your white -wall’d cots, ye vales, Untainted fly your summer gales; Health, thou from cities lov’st to roam, O make the Monmouth hills thy home ! Great spirits of her bards of yore. While harvests triumph, torrents roar. Train her young shepherds, train them high To sing of mountain liberty: Give them the harp and modest maid ; Give them the sacred village shade. THE BANKS OF WYE. 7§ Long be Llandenny, and Llansoy, 1 1 Names that import a rural joy; Known to our fathers, when May-day Brush’d a whole twelvemonth’s care away. Far different joys possess’d the mind. When Chepstow fading sunk behind. And, from a belt of woods full grown, Arose immense thy turrets brown. Majestic Ragland ! Harvests wave Where thund’ring hosts their watch-word gave. When cavaliers, with downcast eye. Struck the last flag of loyalty*: * This castle, with a garrison commanded by the Mar- quis of Worcester, was the last place of strength which held out for the unfortunate Charles the First. THE BANKS OF WYE. 71 Then, left by gallant Worcester's band, 23 To devastation’s cruel hand The beauteous fabric bow’d, fled all The splendid hours of festival. No smoke ascends; the busy hum Is heard no more; no rolling drum, No high-ton’d clarion sounds alarms. No banner wakes the pride of arms*; *